Where to Go in Brazil Beyond Rio
Rio de Janeiro is Brazil's most popular destination, and with good reason: The Marvelous City, as it's called, dazzles with lush jungle, long stretches of sand, and a reverberating pat pat of samba tamborims dancing in the air. But Brazil is a massive country, with remarkable diversity in culture and topography, and Rio is just a sliver. Given the size of the country (as Brazilians like to remind you, all of Europe, minus Russia, could fit within its boundaries), it shouldn't be so surprising that the landscape goes well beyond the expected tropical tropes. The northeast coast teems with Afro-Brazilian rituals; head toward the interior, and you'll find preserved colonial architecture decorating snug mountain towns. Sure, it can take up as much as seven hours by plane to get between destinations, but one-of-a-kind stops like the Lençois Marenhenses sand dunes and southern Pantanal wetlands (the largest in the world) are worth the journey. Plus, with the visa requirement recently dropped for US travelers—and the 2019 Copa America kicking off in five cities across the country—there are plenty of reasons to visit.
GettyBrasilia
Brasilia, the capital of Brazil, is an entirely planned city, established in 1960 as a centrally located seat for the government and based entirely in functionality. It stands in drastically contrast to the physical composition of every other city in the country. For architecture lovers and brutalist aesthetes, it's a must visit: the entire city is laid out in the shape of an airplane, and is home to iconic buildings from Brazilian national treasure Oscar Niemeyer, who designed most of the city, including the Cathedral of Brasilia and Museu Nacional. Plus, its origin story as a proposed urban utopia is fascinating to learn about. The city is just a two-hour flight from Rio; stay a night or two at the B Hotel Brasília before heading back.
GettyManaus
Manaus is the key point of entry for the Brazilian Amazon, with most using it as a jumping off point for an Amazon cruise like the 12-passenger Gadean, or an off-the-grid eco-lodge like Amazon EcoPark. Given that it's the largest rainforest in the entire world, you could spend a lifetime spotting sloths and macaws in the dense jungle. If you have a day before heading into the jungle, the city itself warrants a visit: take in unexpected produce and proteins at the Adolpho Lisboa market (you might spot fresh açai berries, or nine-foot-long arapaima fish), ogle the decadent architecture in the old town (built on once-flowing rubber riches), and catch a show at the neo-classical Teatro Amazonas, before resting your head at boutique Hotel Villa Amazônia. Manaus is just a four-hour flight from Rio.
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For generations, the fishing village of Jericoacoara didn't see many outside visitors, save for a few tapped-in backpackers who used it as their private escape. Word is out: it's become the resident bohemian resort town, with new hotels, an airport, and a somewhat-constant buzz. Thanks to a National Park designation, the natural beauty that made the area worth the journey in the first place—think giant sand dunes that roll right up to the windswept beach—holds on, and the crowds are still more spread out than on the beaches of Rio. For windsurfers and kiteboarders, "Jeri,, as many call it, is a must-visit (for the uninitiated, there are few better places to learn). If you're more of a beach bum, visit after May when the calmer swimming lagoons are filled to the brim. You can fly direct from cities like Rio (that route is about three hours nonstop), and enjoy stays like the could-be-in-Miami Essenza Hotel.
GettySerra dos Órgãos
Rio isn't short on hikes, but if you're up for a 1.5 hour drive, the Serra dos Órgãos National Park blows the city's trails out of the water. On a clear day, you can even see the serrated topography looming beyond the city—the ridges, jutting towers, and sloping mountains, which were formed some 620 million years ago, have been further carved by erosion into a truly notable horizon. Ambitious travelers can climb Pedra do Sino (the highest peak at 7,400 feet, doable as a day trip), or go big on the three-day trek between the charming mountain towns of Petropolis and Teresopolis. Keep in mind that the area has more extreme temperatures than sea-level Rio—both treks are best during shoulder seasons (our fall or spring), when it's not too cold or too rainy. Tap a local operator in Rio, or work with a trusted travel specialist before touching down to hammer out the details.
GettyBelo Horizonte
Belo Horizonte was one of the hosts during the 2014 World Cup, and is hosting during the 2019 Copa America as well. Travelers are likely to be in town to see one of the matches, but that doesn't mean you should write it off—this city is a sleeper hit. It's the capital of Minas Gerais, a landlocked state known for lush farmland, colonial-era architecture, and rich, comforting cuisine that caught Bourdain's eye. It was also the heart of the Brazilian Gold Rush, making it quite literally rich as well. You could easily spend a couple days eating Minas cheese in the Mercado Central and walking the leafy avenues, but don't miss taking a day trip to Inhotim—a massive modern art complex set within a botanical garden just an hour outside town—which is reason enough to hop the hour-long flight from Rio. Bunk down at Hotel Fasano: the São Paolo-based hotel brand is a reliable favorite throughout the country.
GettyParaty
Paraty is a classic go-to for a small town getaway from Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo (it's a four-hour drive from both). It's full of charm, thanks to 17-century colonial buildings with whitewashed walls and bright pops of color, and its tight, cobblestoned streets are dotted with shops selling artisanal cachaça and independent galleries. It's so easy to love, you probably won't be the only tourist around, but that's okay—the buzz around the main square is a welcome hum in the otherwise quiet town, and with more than 65 islands and 200 beaches within the boundaries of Paraty, it's easy to break off from the herd. Hire a boat to explore the speck that is Cedro Island, or the secluded Saco de Mamangua, or enjoy favorite stretches of sand on the mainland, like beaches Trinidade and Sono. Most of the accommodations are small boutiques built into colonial homes (Paraty Casa Colonial is a comfortable option).
GettyLençóis Maranhenses National Park
If there's one reason to extend your trip beyond Rio, Lençóis Maranhenses is probably it. The National Park is a collection of rippled white sand dunes resembling crumpled up bedsheets (lençóis means "sheets" in Portuguese), stretching some 380,000 acres on the north Atlantic coast. And, for just a few months a year, it becomes home to semi-permanent beaches as rainwater pools settle in the dips of its dunes. Fly into the São Luís Inernational Airport (about seven hours from Rio), and hire a car to take you to one of two basecamps: Barreirinhas or Santo Amaro do Maranhão. From there, you can explore the most popular pools—Lake Azul and Lake Bonita—on your own, or have a guide take you out on a 4x4 for a days-long excursion (tap a travel specialist for help with the latter). Visit between July and Sept, when the pools are full but the heat is still bearable.
GettyBúzios
In the '60s, Brigitte Bardot used to steal away to Búzios with her Brazilian boyfriend—and a glamorous set of travelers, including Madonna and Mick Jagger, have flitted off to its sun-soaked beaches ever since. The little peninsula is carved with nearly two dozen beaches, with highlights like the rocky cove of Praia Azeda, and the jungle-meets-sand setting of Praia Brava. And, even though it's just a three-hour drive from the Marvelous City, the water is calmer (and cleaner) than in Rio, and the vibe on-land feels more like your classic beach town—expect cobblestoned streets, sail-up restaurants, and relaxing stays like Insolito Boutique Hotel. Rent a car in Rio—you'll also need it for beach-hopping while in town—and stay for a long weekend.
GettySão Paulo
The sprawling yet congested megalopolis of São Paulo is usually the de facto second stop after Rio, but there's a reason the country's creatives prefer the former: São Paulo is the country's hub of most every major industry and it has more immigrant communities and cultures than anywhere else in the country. You could spend a couple days eating at destination restaurants like the two Michelin-starred D.O.M., checking out art hubs like the São Paulo Museum of Art, people-watching in its sprawling parks like Ibirapuera, or bouncing between late-night roaming parties such as Mamba Negra. In between, crash at the design-friendly Hotel Unique. The flight from Rio is just one hour, and there are dozens every day.
GettyPantanal
The Amazon may be the crown jewel of Brazilian wildlife destinations, but the lesser-known Pantanal wetlands offer a completely different—yet equally remarkable—wildlife experience for travelers. The Pantanal is the world's largest tropical wetland and is home to the largest concentration of wildlife on the continent, with some calling it the best preserved wetlands in the world. Plus, because the terrain is fairly flat with fauna thinner and lower than that of the lush Amazon, it's easier to spot the jaguars, giant anteaters, green anacondas, and howler monkeys that call it home. You'll want to work with a travel specialist or tour company who can help arrange transportation from Rio, São Paulo, or the nearby airport of Cuiaba (a four-hour flight from Rio), several days of excursions, and a comfortable home base like Araras Eco Lodge for the best experience.
GettyFernando de Noronha
Some 200 miles off the northeast coast lies the volcanic archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. The crystal clear water, undeveloped beaches, and dramatic peaked and curving landscape deserve the superlatives they earn, but the main island is also a protected ecological reserve and marine park where travelers can spot everything from giant sea turtles to pan-tropical spotted dolphins in the water. It has strict tourist limits of only 460 visitors on the island at any time, so you won't have to worry about crowds—but you will have to book well in advance. Fly into Recife or Natal (three hours from Rio), and spend a few nights at the contemporary Pousada Maravhila, easily the chicest stay on the island with sublime bay-front views.
GettySalvador de Bahia
With a zoomed-out look at a world map, it's no wonder the northeast coast of Brazil has such a heavy African influence—the curved jut of land reaches toward West Africa, which is why Salvador de Bahia was a major point of entry for West Africans during the slave trade. Today, the city has a distinct Afro-Brazilian culture, as well as a carnival celebration each February rivals that Rio's, with a wildly regional flair. Walk the old town, where you'll find a rainbow of colorful colonial homes (many of which are now Airbnbs or hotels), baroque buildings like the 18th-century Igreja e Convento de São Francisco, and, some evenings, live performances by percussion group Olodum on the main plaza. Don't leave without trying a traditional moqueca seafood stew (Donana is reliable) and acarajé shrimp fritters (sold on the streets after dark), or visiting the pilgrimmage- worthy Basílica do Senhor do Bonfim church where visitors make wishes on ribbons before tying them to the church's fence. Salvador is an easy two-hour flight from Rio, and can keep any traveler busy for a few days (more if you plan to stay a night on nearby islands like Morro de São Paulo).
GettyPorto de Galinhas
This northeastern beach town has the requisite turquoise waters, 11 miles of white sand, and swaying palms to secure a spot on any best beach roundup. But its real claim to fame is its crystalline reef pools—best explored on a small for-hire jangada sailboat—which promise fantastic snorkeling, scuba, and warm-water swimming (the average temperature of the water is around 79 degrees Fahrenheit). The town itself also has enough infrastructure to make getting in and sticking around for a few days comfortable, but an eco-tourism lean and lack of its own airport help thin out some of the crowds. To get there, take the three-hour flight from Rio to Recife, hire a car for the 1.5 hour drive to Porto, as locals call it, and find an Airbnb or hotel that'll do the job (Kembali or Armacão are among the best of the limited batch).
GettyOuro Preto
Ouro Preto is a colonial town in the countryside of Minas Gerais, which lures travelers in with its baroque architecture, steep winding streets, and quieter countryside pace. That is, outside of its lively carnival celebrations (usually in February or March), which includes one of the oldest street parties in the country—the Zé Pereira dos Lacaios bloco, which has been thriving since 1867—and is fueled by the tight-knit local community and boisterous student population. You can easily do Ouro Preto as a weekend add-on to Rio de Janiero (it's an hour away by plane), or you can add it to a road trip itinerary that includes Belo Horizonte and Inhotim (it's one to two hours from each). As far as accommodations go, you'll find plenty of B&Bs that are as packed with personality as they are modest in amenities; Hotel Solar do Rosário is a reliable pick of the batch.
GettyIlha Grande
Ilha Grande is still in the state of Rio de Janeiro, but step one foot on its wild beaches, spot howler monkeys, maned sloths, and broad-souted caimans in its pristine rainforest, or sail its crystal clear, fish-filled waters and it's easy to feel a world away from the bustling capital city. In fact, Ilha Grande is of the best preserved ecosystems in all of Brazil—partially thanks to the fact that it remained largely undeveloped until 1994 (it formerly housed a leper colony, then a maximum security prison). Since then, environmental restrictions have kept the land and sea clean, and development has been minimal. There are still no roads or cars on the island, and far fewer crowds than on less-impressive beaches elsewhere in the country. The best part? It's just a two-hour drive and 30-minute ferry from Rio, and accommodations range from beachfront tents to comfortable stays like Pousada Vila Pedra Mar, appeasing every kind of traveler.
GettyChapada Diamantina National Park
In eastern Brazil, you'll find the Chapada Diamantina National Park—home to crevasses with towering monoliths and eagle's eye-view mountain plateaus, and an elaborate cave network that most travelers need at least four days to explore. The park, which often draws Grand Canyon comparisons, is massive, so you'll need a guide to navigate; plus, getting in is a bit complicated, as it can take seven hours and at least two stops by plane to reach the gateway town of Lençois from Rio or São Paulo. Luckily, a specialist can set up the above if you're interested (and help you find the best of the modest accommodations).
