The Best Countryside Inns in the United Kingdom, From the Cotswolds to Wales
Looking for a quiet getaway in the English countryside for true relaxation, rolling green scenery, and a cozy pub to unwind in in between adventures? These 26 traditional country pubs with rooms are exactly what you're looking for, complete with a traditional central watering hole and a place to spend the night. Here are the best countryside inns in the United Kingdom, including options in England, Wales, and beyond.
All listings featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you book something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Ed SchofieldThe Bell and Crown, Zeals
Originally renovated in 2019, The Bell and Crown did not just survive through the pandemic, it thrived. It's set in Zeals – a picturesque village in southwest Wiltshire, a short drive from trendy Frome and Bruton. The former coaching inn is owned by The Chickpea Group, an exciting young business that has nurtured several pubs in the area. Now, adding six upstairs rooms, they have turned a locals' favorite pub into a city dwellers’ weekend getaway, all while keeping the regulars constantly coming back. The rooms are clad in neutral shades and textures, with flashes of colors and prints that reflect the team’s appreciation of contemporary design: Moroccan Berber rugs, handmade fabric lampshades and walls dotted with eclectic, tasteful art. On the ever-changing menu is classic pub fare with a twist–'Nduja scotch eggs, a locally sourced rack of lamb with garlic mash, and a sticky toffee pudding guaranteed to have you rolling up to your room. In the morning, a hearty traditional breakfast includes surprises like Negroni shots (the first one's on them) and pop tarts. Out back, the quiet covered seating area looks out on a peaceful arable field–the ideal spot for a sundowner. Every aspect of the pub contributes to a mood of considered simplicity combined with unexpected, thoughtful details, from the weekly pop-up pizza van to the freshly baked cookies waiting in your room. Florrie Thomas
Address: The Bell and Crown, New Road, Zeals, BA12 6NJ, England
Price: Doubles from $120
The Double Red DukeThe Double Red Duke, The Cotswolds
It’s easy to spot this wisteria-clad 17th-century coaching inn, with its candy-striped umbrellas forming a jaunty Soho House-style beacon. In many ways the revamped Oxfordshire pub (part of the Country Creatures group) draws parallels with the global members’ club. Aimed at city-living weekenders, rooms are decorated with floral wallpaper, botanical block-print lampshades and velvet headboards in burnt orange and teal. Kick off with a house cocktail crafted with gin, basil, white pepper and lemon. Or a vodka: with a whole page of the menu dedicated to local blends – such as silky-smooth Wood Brothers and Toad Rye–the pre-prandial hour can easily slip into two. Luckily, there’s plenty of delicious fare to keep things on an even keel. Whipped broad-bean mash with flatbreads, say, alongside wood-roasted scallops, followed by a Montgomery Cheddar soufflé with lobster and chips–well-earned after a stomp around the bosky dells of Clanfield village. And homemade salted-caramel petits fours so good you’ll wish you could buy some to take home. Staff, wearing Fifties bowling jackets, are unfailingly enthusiastic, and the only sounds at night are the hoot of an owl and the gentle rustle of leaves. Jemima Sissons
Address: The Double Red Duke, Bourton Road, Clanfield, Bampton OX18 2RB
Price: Doubles from $145
Joel KnightThe George & Heart House, Margate
While Margate has long outgrown its up-and-coming tag, the town’s transformation continues to gather pace with the revival of one of its original pubs. On the edge of Old Town—seconds from the beach, the Turner Contemporary and must-try restaurants–this 18th-century inn has been reincarnated as one of its most charismatic places to stay. Owners Kelly Love and Dan Williams first made waves running a tiki bar at street-food hub The Sun Deck; then they set about a major restoration of the George & Heart House, which opened at the end of 2019. This summer, six rooms were added to the wabi-sabi-like top floor, with its wonky floorboards, gold-leaf-adorned staircases ,and stripped paint revealing decades-old wall-paper. Ranging from shimmering Seventies chic to black-and-gold Art Deco glamour, each one (two share bathrooms) has been created by a local artist. The Hideaway, for instance, has a freestanding bath at the end of the four-poster bed, a tongue-in-cheek framed quote by Margate-raised Tracey Emin, and gold drapes that reveal glimpses of Turner’s beloved sunsets across the rooftops. Guests have exclusive access to Reggie’s Bar, a cute spot for fixing a late-night dram or early-morning coffee, as well as a wellness area and palm-lined garden. Perhaps the biggest draw, though, is the prospect of a bed above one of the area’s best boozers, where a roster of takeovers, Sunday roasts, and chef pop-ups ensures you see first-hand why this seaside town is buzzing again. Ben Olsen
Address: The George & Heart House, 44 King Street, Margate, Kent CT9 1QE
Price: Doubles from $140
Martin MorrellThe Bradley Hare, Maiden Bradley
Wiltshire’s smartest new countryside inn is set in the tiny village of Maiden Bradley, part of the Duke of Somerset’s estate, where waves of barley and manicured tree tunnels shape the landscape beyond. Here, a bunch of ex-Soho House creatives–including James Thurstan Waterworth, former European design director–have given the old-school pub a cool, considered makeover. Provençal-farmhouse interiors come with a touch of flamboyance–a tub for two, say, or a curtained bed tucked in a nook. In the 12 characterful rooms (some are above the pub; the largest are in the Coach House), earthy Farrow & Ball hues are teamed with repurposed fabrics, 18th-century furniture and vintage Persian rugs. Downstairs, the deliberately low-key look–scuffed wooden floors, rickety chairs and cosy corners with roaring fires that keep villagers returning–belies the skill of Dave the bartender, who appears with a Limoncello Spritz at precisely five o’clock, and the sustainable approach to the food. Vegetables are grown on the nearby community allotment and the kitchen is aiming towards zero-waste with a seasonal menu of dishes such as whipped smoked mackerel with rainbow beetroot and a sirloin sandwich with Isle of Wight tomatoes. A brilliant rural stopover, 15 minutes’ drive from arty Frome. Katharine Sohn
Address: The Bradley Hare, Church Street, Maiden Bradley BA12 7HW
Price: Doubles from $140
Richard Gaston/The TaybankThe Taybank, Perthshire
In the postcard-pretty Perthshire village of Dunkeld, the high street is peppered with indie stores such as Aran, the hip bakery from The Great British Bake Off semi-finalist Flora Shedden. By the river is the Taybank, an inn famous for its traditional music scene–it was once owned by Dougie Maclean, who wrote Scottish folk anthem ‘Caledonia’. In 2019 the place was taken over by ex-polo player and Edinburgh Fringe caterer Fraser Potter, only to close three months later. Its refurb became his lockdown project. With the help of his friend Anna Lamotte from Guardswell Farm down the road (the kitchen’s vegetable supplier), he redesigned the interiors into five Scandi-chic, tech-free bedrooms, doing most of the joinery himself. Room five in the eaves is the one to book, a cozy cocoon with burnished-copper lamps, granite-grey paintwork and a headboard balanced with books, a lute, and drip coffee cups made by local potter Ellen Macfarlane. Add luscious bathroom products by Laura Thomas, a hamper for breakfast in bed, and a civilized noon checkout. The ground-floor bar still has a spit’n’sawdust vibe, with instruments stacked in the corner for impromptu jams. Through the restaurant windows you can gaze over another of Potter’s innovations. The car park and lawn sloping down to the Tay are now a giant canvas-topped beer garden with an outdoor kitchen, pizza oven, and fire-pit. Lucy Gillmore
Address: The Taybank Tay Terrace, Dunkeld, Perthshire PH8 0AQ
Price: Doubles from $180
The Lamb InnThe Lamb Inn, Oxfordshire
This is the quintessential modern pub: a space for Cotswolds locals, visitors and gastronomic hipsters. On a Tuesday evening an old gent from down the road with mutton-chop whiskers and a Laurie Lee lilt tucks into fish and chips under black-and-white photographs by William Waterworth, to a soundtrack of blues. The second inn from talented young chefs Tom Noest and Peter Creed of The Bell in Langford, The Lamb has taken over an old pub in the Oxfordshire village of Shipton-under-Wychwood, and is already a local hub. The junior football team piles in with their parents after training to sup cloudy apple juice and pints of Hooky as the inevitable stream of Londoners descends for over-the-limit Negronis and the famous bone marrow flatbread. It’s something of a natural history museum too; moths in frames and stags’ heads line the walls alongside prints from the owners’ art-world friends. Rooms (it opened with five, with five more just added) celebrate the building’s beautiful 14th-century bones, with wide wooden floorboards and sash windows softened with ikat cushions. Food is hearty–the buttermilk-fried chicken with aioli is worth crossing counties for and the lemon tart is a bouncy citrus dream. The wine list has weighty white Burgundies and plenty for natural-wine lovers. By the end of the evening, everyone is friends, sharing shots of plum brandy, phone numbers, and raucous tales. JS
Address: The Lamb Inn, High St, Shipton Under Wychwood OX7 6DQ
Price: Doubles from $110
Helen Cathcart/The Bear InnThe Bear Inn, Shropshire
‘I went about this job as if I was designing a private house,’ says interiors whizz Octavia Dickinson of her recent work at this spot in the north Shropshire village of Hodnet. Working alongside her was her friend, and The Bear’s landlord, Tom Heber-Percy, whose family own much of the pretty Tudor village. Out went all legacies of the pub’s long and checkered past, most notably the bear pit, revived for a nefarious spell in the 1970s when the tenants kept two grizzlies on site; in came bold color and playfulness, fine art and furniture, and lashings of fabric sourced from a roll-call of British interior design and auction houses. Each room (there are seven in the main building and five in the coach house, all named after trees) has its own personality – Juniper, Rowan and Ash have small sitting rooms; dog-friendly, ground-floor Sycamore and Birch open onto the courtyard. Food is taken seriously here–more posh pub grub than fine dining (rabbit pasties; pork belly with baked celeriac) with an emphasis on local produce, some straight from the hall’s 200-year-old walled garden. Eat in the open-plan informal dining room and bar, or in one of the stable-style booths by the outdoor area that’s designed to resemble a French village square–the furniture is the same as found in Paris’s Luxembourg Garden. Pamela Goodman
Address: The Bear Inn, Drayton Road, Hodnet, Shropshire TF9 3NH
Price: Doubles from $130
Bobbie LeeThe Loch & The Tyne, Windsor
The sign that swings outside this Windsor address doesn’t have a castle or crown on it but the words ‘Sustainable British Luxury’, words that will hopefully become as ubiquitous as Red Lion one day. It’s the first pub from chef Adam Handling, who’s had a busy year–pivoting to home dinners in lockdown, cooking for the G7 leaders in Cornwall and opening an outpost of his London Butterfly restaurant near St Ives. As for the sign’s promise, it runs through this place like blue blood through royalty. Water’s recycled, furniture upcycled and the cycles themselves made from old Nespresso pods. It looks and feels like a proper pub, though, with a guitarist covering Eighties hits on Sunday and the chance of a pint and burger at the bar– the best burger you’ll ever have, according to head chef Jonny McNeil, thanks to the lardo he uses. Scottish-born McNeil is the Loch of the title, Steven Kerr is the Tyne, and the pair smuggle Irn-Bru into a cocktail or two. Newcastle Brown finds its way into the sourdough. The menu works hard to be zero-waste–trimmings from the star dish of lobster wagyu, for example, go to make croquettes and sauce for the cod and lobster tart. Upstairs are just a brace of bedrooms, well-tailored in bamboo and mango-wood furniture, with Haeckel's bath potions, a cocktail from Handling’s drinks lab, and a terrace with views over the fields. Nourishing on many levels. Rick Jordan
Address: The Loch & Tyne, 10 Crimp Hill, Old Windsor, Berkshire SL4 2QY
Price: Doubles from $225
Jim PoynerThe Alice Hawthorn, Norfolk
With vine-covered cottages and an ancient church overlooking a green where cows graze, the charming village of Nun Monkton near York could have been plucked straight from a children’s fable. Its 250-year-old pub has long been a draw for foodies, who come for the Michelin Guide restaurant. But, in 2017, new owners Claire and John Topham took the risky decision to give the inn a facelift – and it paid off. Upstairs has been renovated to create four restful rooms in muted shades, with beamed ceilings and huge bathtubs. Most recently, eight new garden rooms built from Douglas fir have modern, chalet-inspired interiors: wood-paneled walls, rocking chairs, and sliding glass doors that lead to a balcony opening onto the courtyard. Despite the revamp, the old-world feel is as strong as ever. In the bar, rustic tables and exposed brickwork are paired with framed newspaper clippings on the walls, and come evening, locals huddle around great yawning fireplaces fronted by thick rugs. On the menu, traditional dishes are given a twist: prawns coated in crispy batter are served with a peppy wasabi mayo; a deconstructed tiramisu has a layer of icy espresso granita and a balloon of coffee-flavored cream. A peaceful, pastoral escape with culinary kudos that hits the sweet spot. Olivia Morelli
Address: The Alice Hawthorn, The Green, Nun Monkton, York YO26 8EW
Price: Doubles from $145
The Duncombe ArmsThe Duncombe Arms, on the Staffordshire-Derbyshire border
We drove past it every day wondering what on earth to do with it,’ chuckles Laura Greenall, referring to a boarded-up, unloved pub on the edge of her and husband Johnny’s Staffordshire-Derbyshire estate. Her casual recollection belies the couple’s hospitality brio, lofty food standards and sharp design eye, responsible for reinstating the Duncombe Arms as the local community hub since 2012. While keeping the key trappings and spirit of the traditional pub–cozy nooks, a roaring open fire and Merlot-hued rugs warming flagstones–they installed an impressive farm-to-fork ethos, working closely with a cattle and sheep farm in the Staffordshire Moorlands, as well as a fresh riff on rustic design (woolly blankets flung over rattan furniture beside fire-pits outside; cushioned chairs, tartan, and quirky cow canvases inside).
And while this spot is perfectly placed for Peak District ramblers, particularly as the sun shifts north across the magnificent mass of rock, soft grass, and wildflowers, it's the imaginative and elevated menu that pulls in the crowds: roasted Jerusalem artichoke starters with shaved truffle; Staffordshire lamb-rump mains with miso-baked carrot and ewe’s curd. House sourdough, buckwheat and barley spring-onion salads, and other cosmopolitan delights appear to have drifted north from London’s restaurant scene along with Adam Handling-trained chef Jake Boyce, whose emphasis on produce and knack for creative spins on much-loved classics has placed the Duncombe Arms firmly on the UK’s foodie map. General manager James Oddy has worked with Bibendum Wine to curate an extensive and intriguing wine list worth hanging around for, along with the artfully light English puddings. This can be for the night or longer in Walnut House’s refined rooms, and with a small group in the smartly renovated Old Barn (more a charming cottage), both a stone’s throw away. Why not make a weekend or even a week of it and hunker down with five others in the Garden Cottage, set in a secluded spot on the bucolic Wootton Hall estate? A lovely launchpad for scaling the Peaks and feasting on a legendary Duncombe Arms burger with bacon jam and a Greenhall’s G&T. Rosalyn Wikeley
Address: The Duncombe Arms, Ellastone, Ashbourne DE6 2GZ
Price: Double rooms from $235
The Village PubThe Village Pub, Barnsley, Gloucestershire
This is the clever choice if its grander sister up the road, Barnsley House, is a bit much (although you would be foolish not to stop off for its heavenly spa and lunch in the garden restaurant). At The Village Pub, you can trundle around in your wellies then settle down to quail scotch eggs, Butts Farm beef in ale pie, huge fish cakes, and homemade ice cream. Almost every ingredient on the menu includes the producer's name, and dishes change daily according to what is in season. There are flagstone floors, exposed stone walls, polished wood, and animal heads on the walls. Dried wheatsheafs decorate the bar and the decor adheres to the compulsory Cotswolds palette of moss greens and muted greys, both downstairs and up in the six bedrooms. Nothing is overdone: sheets are white cotton but the highest thread count, the limited wine list nevertheless offers everything you want (only two rosés but both Côtes de Provence). Staff are jolly and helpful but not over the top, and have maps on hand for long walks and picnics, or loads of DVDs for rainy days. Full of quiet confidence, this village pub is as good as you would hope.
Address: The Village Pub, Barnsley, Gloucestershire, England
Price: Double rooms from $160
The Pheasant InnThe Pheasant Inn, near Hungerford
Having hailed from the Greenall Whitley brewing dynasty, affable and terribly polite Jack Greenall took on the Pheasant Inn, turning a worn-out racing country local on the fringes of antiques-town Hungerford into something more remarkable. Rather than cut the racing ties or alienate its distinctly rural community with new-age know-it-all and predictable urban takes on country interiors, he oversaw a thorough yet measured revamp, keeping the locals and tempting Londoners to chug that little bit further along the M4. Comforting deep-green and red hues still deck the pub despite smartly furnished country rooms upstairs while scrumptiously innovative riffs on old classics, such as the black pudding Scotch egg with fruity brown sauce and the Marlborough mushroom Wellington, make the hour-and-a-bit long drive from London more than worth it. The wood-paneled walls and cozy courtyard are filled with the ruddy-cheeked spirit of a convivial country bolthole where Negronis, cashew-nut hummus starters, and modern art sit effortlessly alongside guest ales, venison and shelves of battered leather-bound books. Long, expertly plucked wine lists and cheese boards encourage guests to settle in, which on a Sunday warrants a free night’s stay should they spend more than £100 in the pub. By Rosalyn Wikeley
Address: The Pheasant Inn, Ermin Street, Shefford Woodlands, Hungerford RG17 7AA
Price: Double rooms from $125
Michael LittleThe Dundas Arms, Kintbury, Berkshire
It's hard to beat this in terms of Trumpton-like charm. There's the railway crossing that ding dings just before it, the canal lock that see-saws when long-boats chortle through and the lovely trout-fishing river that whirls past on the other side. The pub is at the center of a certain bucolic bustle, with walkers and dogs and locals and families all trotting around their business. There's a wooden terrace right over the water where children can feed the ducks with hunks of bread provided by the staff, and a heavenly garden with enough twisty trees to play a game of sardines while parents tuck into good cider. Other pubs in the group include the flagship Admiral Codrington in London and the lovely Museum in Dorset; they all share a certain look: traditional structures that are tuned to their best by being entirely cozy but fresh, with great wallpapers and blazing fires; there's even a Victorian bar here made out of old minted pennies. Staff, who all wear stripes and have a spring in their step, scurry about carrying bottles of good claret—or pots of crayons. The food is simple and hearty: great pâtés, proper roasts, lightly battered fish and chips. Book a River Room with a private terrace right next to the water; breakfast on a sunny Sunday, reading the papers—at this great price–is all rather satisfying.
Address: The Dundas Arms, Station Road, Kintbury, Berkshire, England
Price: Double rooms from $120
The Punch Bowl InnThe Punch Bowl, Crosthwaite, Cumbria
The Friday night crowd here looks like this: the odd city boy getting away from it all, gamekeepers from the local hunt, and walkers whacked out after a day of fresh air in the nearby Windermere fells, all hunkering down by the fireplace in the bar or sitting at wooden tables in the more formal dining room. In either space you can wolf down feather-light, twice-baked Lancashire soufflé with tomato chutney or delicate loin of rabbit, knocked up by rising star young chef Scott Fairweather. Upstairs, there are nine totally different rooms: Cooper and Birkett come with contemporary elm four-poster beds; grand, traditional Strickland has dramatic hand-blocked wallpaper and a silk corona; and Noble, the biggest of the bunch, is a loft suite in the eaves with wooden beams and two free-standing baths side by side. There are Roberts radios on the dressing tables, woolen throws on the beds, and pops of color from sage green to raspberry red. Wake up in the morning, pull back the thick curtains, and look out over a patchwork of fields. There's a parish church next door where the bellringers practice religiously and the touristy honeypot of Kendal is just five miles away.
Address: The Punch Bowl, Crosthwaite, Cumbria, England
Price: Double rooms from $125
Rob BesantThe Bell at Skenfrith, Monmouthshire, Wales
In the shadows of the medieval Skenfrith Castle and with the River Monnow rushing by the front of the building, The Bell has a dreamy setting. Bedrooms are completely on the button, with fresh daffodils on the windowsill, starched cotton sheets, Welsh wool blankets tucked into deeply comfortable beds, and Cath Collins products in the large bathrooms. There's a jug of cold, fresh milk and a jar of homemade shortbread waiting on the tea tray or a bottle of Frapin VSOP cognac with two glasses on the nightstand if you feel like something a bit stronger, but it's the food that brings people here over and over again. The restaurant has roaring log fires and huge squishy sofas, mismatched wooden tables, and an extensive wine list. The unfussy menu includes seasonal, locally sourced foods such as fillet of Brecon beef, Monmouthshire lamb, Gloucester Old Spot pork, and organic vegetables from The Bell's own kitchen garden. And with no cellphone reception and a deep-black star-lit sky at night, this is a place to come and really switch off.
Address: The Bell at Skenfrith, Monmouthshire, Wales
Price: Double rooms from $180
Jake EasthamThe Wheatsheaf, Northleach, Gloucestershire
Humming with musical chitchat and popping fires, The Wheatsheaf is all about atmosphere. And it has singlehandedly put the small town of Northleach on the map. Owners Sam and Georgie Pearman are bright and bubbly, and work tirelessly on their Cotswolds projects (as well as The Wheatsheaf, they steer The Chequers pub in Kingham and The Royal Well Tavern in Cheltenham, where their new boutique hotel 131 is also making a stir). He used to play rugby, she's an ex-lawyer, between them they know how to nail everything you want in a country boozer. For starters, the booze itself, including their own brew Bobby Beer. There are big platters of oysters, amazing chili squid, spot-on steak and chips, and ham hock or halibut with a beetroot and granola sidekick. The warm treacle tart with clotted cream is a waist-expanding hallmark. Interiors are no less considered. Moody-colored walls are bedecked with antlers and oil portraits. There are a few stuffed ducks about the place, plenty of candles, and a large jar full of hangover cures for those who stay the night. Bedrooms one and 11 are the best. One is masculine and dark, with grey herringbone fabric and a pewter bath sitting on the slate-tiled floor. Room 11 is more feminine, with girly greens, sisal flooring, a bateau bath, and bedside tables fashioned from old Harrods removal boxes. The gorgeous private dining room, with glittering chandeliers and chairs draped in furs, gets booked months in advance.
Address: The Wheatsheaf, Northleach, Gloucestershire, England
Price: Double rooms from $170
Jake EasthamThe Kingham Plough, Kingham, Oxfordshire
Run by an eager-to-please, ruddy-faced couple, Miles Lampson and Emily Watkins, this bolthole is full of personal charm (there are even pictures of their children on the walls). In the heart of the quaint village of Kingham, it is brilliantly located to explore nearby Stowe, Chipping Camden, and Burford, and is a 20-minute walk along the back roads to Daylesford Organic's mothership. It's the kind of place where if you'd had one too many but forgotten to book a room, they wouldn't kick you out. The owners are fiercely proud of the pub's surroundings and have strong links with local farmers (once a year the car park is transformed into a big food-filled market drawing a crowd of thousands). Breakfast is bliss: excellent freshly ground coffee, Burford Browns with tangerine yolks, home-made bread, and baked beans that don't come from a tin. The selection of booze is impressive, including Cotswolds Gin and almost every beer and cider imaginable, but you won't get too sozzled as bar snacks are taken very seriously: pork scratchings, venison salami, sausage rolls, and huge ploughman's (you are told exactly where each type of cheese and ham comes from). Rooms are unfussy, light and airy, with sweet-smelling Penhaligon's products, fluffy towels and little vases of flowers. The Plough is what every pub should be: dependable, delightful and, above all, an extremely good deal.
Address: The Kingham Plough, Kingham, Oxfordshire, England
Price: Double rooms from $115
Jake EasthamThe Devonshire Arms, Somerset
This 17th-century former hunting lodge sits at the edge of a picture-perfect village green. There's a church peeking out from one corner, the old school house is opposite, and a gathering of sheep bleating in a nearby field. Step inside and there are flagstone floors, flickering church candles and battered leather sofas by a crackling log fire. At the weekend most of the big oak tables are laid for dinner. Everything's fresh from the countryside (the chefs go out foraging for wild garlic in the afternoon, by the evening it's on your plate as garlic mash) and the portions are robust (three organic pork sausages, not two). There's a tiny bar at the back, which gets packed with locals supping Harry's Somerset cider and Moor beer, both made in the village. It's also worth trying the apple juice, which is from Burrow Hill, Alice Temperley's family farm just down the road. Dinner over, it's off upstairs where most of the nine seagrass-floored bedrooms overlook the green. Number six is the grandest, with a mahogany four-poster, cream-colored walls and a vast bathroom that has a walk-in shower and stand-alone bath. You might see owner Philip Mepham's gorgeous black labrador Coco wandering about the place, too; she's as soppy and affectionate as they come.
Address: The Devonshire Arms, Long Sutton, Somerset, England
Price: Double rooms from $115
The Lamb at HindonThe Lamb at Hindon, Wiltshire
It's all change at The Lamb, part of the Boisdale mini-chain founded by Ranald MacDonald. Head chef Boyd McIntosh has shaken up the menu (less emphasis on the Boisdale burgers, more game and classics such as shepherd's pie), and the laid-back manager doesn't bat an eyelid if you tumble in crumpled from the car and late for your dinner reservation. A 12th-century coaching inn that was once home to 300 post horses and a favorite of the notorious smuggler Silas White (he stored contraband in the cellar), it still has bags of character. Traditional paintings hang on pillar-box-red walls. Ceilings are low with blackened beams. Chairs are mismatched and heraldic-looking and there are wooden settles for two. Scottish touches are everywhere, from the 100 types of whisky behind the bar to the haggis in the cooked breakfast and tartan carpet on the creaking, sloping floors in the corridor. The 19 Highland-fling-styled bedrooms have names such as Glenrothes and Bruichladdich (most are above the pub, but some, such as the lovely Glenlivet, are in the adjoining old stables), with heavy walnut furniture, walk-in cupboards for wardrobes and Neal's Yard products in the bathroom. Children will like the tucked-away games room with its DVDs and big-screen television; others will want to spend sunny afternoons playing boules in the garden across the road. Hindon itself is properly pretty - check out the shop, which is owned and run by the villagers as a collective—and brilliantly positioned for a stopover on the way to the South West.
Address: The Lamb at Hindon, Wiltshire, England
Price: Double rooms from $120
Peter Flude/The Ram InnThe Ram Inn, Firle, East Sussex
The wonky beams, heavy puddling curtains and charcoal-grey palette here work just as well during the winter months as the pretty walled gardens and quintessential cricket pitch do in the summer. Right in the heart of the South Downs, this pub has a big catchment area: creative types scoot up from Brighton, a media-savvy crowd schleps down from London. The snug bar, with a dartboard and cricket bats, is where you warm up with a pint of Sussex bitter, and there's relaxed, candlelit dining in the stable room. There's nothing predictable about the menu, with seriously good game from the Firle estate and fishermen delivering their catch each morning. When the pub recently had a spruce-up and opened four bedrooms in the ramshackle eaves, the village collectively sighed for fear that their secret was out, but so far the place has kept its integrity. Rooms have village views through huge (although slightly drafty) sash windows. One is tongue-and-groove paneled, another has a free-standing bath. This isn't high design but it's concise and comfortable, and leaves the pub and stable room to take centre stage. Employ some restraint at breakfast (locally made sausages, eggs from the village) if you plan on staying for a Sunday roast - unless you sandwich a blustery country walk in between.
Address: The Ram Inn, Firle, East Sussex, England
Price: Double rooms from $115
The Devonshire Arms at PilsleyThe Devonshire Arms at Pilsley, Derbyshire
This cosy, welcoming inn with rooms on the Chatsworth Estate is the sister property of another Devonshire Arms. Which, confusingly, is also a cozy, welcoming inn with rooms on the Chatsworth Estate. This one at Pilsley is most definitely the more pubby of the pair, while its bedfellow in nearby Beeley concentrates more on its much-garlanded restaurant. The former, in a time-warp hamlet that could be the backdrop for a Foyle's War episode, has the Duchess of Devonshire to thank for its interior design. Along with her husband, the 12th Duke, she has played an active role in developing the business, and the pair often pop over from 'the big house' for Sunday lunch. The menu is neither pretentious nor flash, with a focus on hearty English dishes. The steak-and-kidney pudding is a treat, as is the full Derbyshire breakfast with local oatcakes. The seven rooms are crisp and comfortable, plates of sugar-dusted biscuits are left out every morning and bathrooms have full-throttle water pressure.
Address: The Devonshire Arms at Pilsley, on the Chatsworth Estate, Pilsley, Derbyshire
Price: Double rooms from £89
Alan DonaldsonThe Black Horse Inn, Kirkby Fleetham, North Yorkshire
This is a quirky little place in a village smack-bang between the Dales and the Moors. Inside it's country-fête cosy, with pastel-painted distressed tables, gingham-covered chairs, white bunting, and garden views. In contrast, the menu includes great, steaming fisherman's pie and roast chicken. Notes such as 'You'll never find a dull moment in this house' and 'The best tonic has a gin in it' are chalked up in the bar and locals, who come for Fish and Chip Friday, stay long into the night, drinking ale from the nearby Black Sheep Brewery and finishing up with shots of mini-Guinness (a curious concoction of Tia Maria and Baileys). Needless to say, avoid staying in Thelwell, the family room directly above the bar, at the weekend. Of the six other shabby-chic rooms, go for Desert Orchid at the back, with its duck-egg-blue walls and bathtub by the window. For a romantic lie-in (it's mostly couples who come here), get a hamper with cereals, milk, and fruit juice in your room. There's a more substantial breakfast downstairs, including moreish rhubarb-and-ginger jam and enormous full English breakfasts with slabs of black pudding.
Address: The Black Horse Inn, Kirkby Fleetham, North Yorkshire, England
Price: Double rooms from $90
The Drunken DuckThe Drunken Duck, Ambleside, Cumbria
This 200- year-old inn, set in 60 acres of private land above Lake Windermere, is one of the most popular pubs in England's most popular national park—and it deserves its feathers. A combination of its situation, at a hilltop crossroads between the pretty villages of Ambleside and Hawkshead, and its on-site microbrewery have made it a long-standing favorite on ramblers' maps. But what really puts walking boots under tables here is the food, which is truly outstanding. Chiefly the signature drunken duck itself: a whole cherry-glazed bird, served with sweet braised red cabbage and crispy duck-fat-roasted potatoes. Bedrooms are spread between the inn and an outbuilding across the courtyard; the best of the lot is the Garden Room (reportedly a favorite of comedian Steve Coogan), with a private balcony and huge window looking out over the expansive valley below. The pub's water supply is filtered from nearby Duck Tarn. Its color can be startling when you first fill your roll-top bath (the owners compare it to 'a fine malt'), but the water is also wonderfully soft. Plus, it's a crucial ingredient in the seven beers brewed here, some named after much-loved former pub pets.
Address: The Drunken Duck, Barngates, Ambleside, Cumbria, England
Price: Double rooms from $150
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Saltwick MediaThe Bell, Ticehurst, East Sussex
There's nothing remarkable about a pub with a big open fire, chunky beams, and weekenders sipping ale with wet dogs in tow. But The Bell in Ticehurst is so much more than that. On closer inspection, the table legs have been dipped in paint, the beams are held up by stuffed squirrels, and the crowd at the bar is a mixture of ad execs, farmers, writers and priests. The oil painting dominating the dining room is an original Mary Carpenter portrait. There's a Banksy in the hall and Vivienne Westwood wallpaper on the ceilings. Reopened in November 2011 after a £2 million refurbishment, it has all the trappings of an urban boutique hotel—flatscreen TVs, handmade mattresses by Somnus—but this is no identikit set-up. It's eclectic and playful. Designer Richard Brett drew inspiration from regional history and folklore, embellished and distorted 'like the stories told at the bar'. Tables are shelves. Cutlery becomes coat hooks. Hats are lights. The trunk of a silver birch tears through each of the seven bedrooms. You'll find a barber's chair in place of a chaise lounge. The food is gamey and locally-sourced, with proper portions, and the chef brings London restaurant pedigree, having worked at J Sheekey and The Ivy. Leave all pretensions by the door, dress for a romp in the country and prepare to be dragged into a fierce debate on the relative merits of badger lamping.
Address: The Bell, High Street, Ticehurst, East Sussex, England
Price: double rooms from £135
The Gunton ArmsThe Gunton Arms, Thorpe Market, Norfolk
There's no backdrop like a 1,000-acre deer park. Especially in flat and eerie Norfolk, where the twilight dawdles as the mists engulf the estate. Part gallery, part B&B, this is as close as you'll come to climbing inside the minds of decorator and textile collector Robert Kime and owner Ivor Braka, a Chelsea art dealer. There are mounted tarantulas jostling for wall space with lewd Emin plates, and neon lights spell out 'I said don't practice on me' while a Paula Rego female vomits. All this set against gauche wallpaper, Persian carpets, and a family seat's worth of antiques sourced by dealer Robert Young. The brand new paintwork—purposefully aged and discolored to add a sense of antiquity—has had guests complaining that the place is dirty, to the mirth of the manager. The look is old money drenched in big-hitting art. It could so easily be hipper than thou, and yet it's relaxed and unpretentious. The bar is propped up by muddy-booted grooms and chino-clad old duffers, and even mid-week the restaurant is buzzing. Chef Stuart Tattersall (ex-Mark Hix) mans the gaping 16th-century French open fireplace, knocking out superlative steaks that draw people from all along the north Norfolk coast.
Address: The Gunton Arms, Cromer Road, Thorpe Market, Norfolk, England
Price: Double rooms from $115
The Crown, AmershamThe Crown, Amersham, Buckinghamshire
The Crown is the sort of place you can't believe someone hasn't told you about already. A red-brick, oak-beamed, Elizabethan wonky wonder with sharp-as-a-tack rooms, just three quarters of an hour from central London on the Metropolitan Line. Designer Ilse Crawford has brought a fresh aesthetic to this traditional coaching inn with her signature natural tones. Rooms, with pitched ceilings, underfloor heating, handmade rush matting and enough wardrobe space for a two-week stay, have a modern Scandi vibe. The ones off the courtyard are deliciously big with four-posters and deep mattresses. There are also smaller but just as smart rooms in the main building. Little quirks include vintage Penguin Classics on the bedside table, shearling rugs thrown over rocking chairs, and home-made jams at breakfast. The food is the main event, with thoughtfully sourced ingredients such as Dedham Vale beef. Afterwards, get a pint of Rebellion ale and kick back by the fire, turn your hand to a game of pétanque or wander down Old Amersham High Street and window-shop for antiques. Breakfast is a treat, too; wake up to a trestle table brimming with yogurts, mueslis, and pitchers of fresh juices, followed by generous plates of eggs Benedict. This is how to get out of town without the dastardly motorway mission.
Address: The Crown, 16 High Street, Amersham, Buckinghamshire, England
Price: Double rooms from $145This article was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller UK.
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