A Beach-Hopping, Soba-Fueled Road Trip Through Okinawa, Japan

Long a vacation hotspot for Japanese travelers looking for a little sand and surf, subtropical Okinawa is finally getting its turn in the spotlight, thanks to more and more flights from the mainland. It feels distinctly different than the urban vibes of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka: In large part, this is because Okinawa existed for centuries as part of its own kingdom, giving the island its own distinct culture, dialect, and cuisine. (It didn’t become part of Japan until 1879.)

Another reason it feels different is because it’s more reminiscent of a place like Hawaii than the aforementioned tech-forward metropolises: as part of Japan’s southernmost prefecture (also called Okinawa), Okinawa island has vibrant coral reefs, lush rainforests, beaches galore, and average annual temperatures that rarely dip below 58 degrees Fahrenheit. Its citizens—thanks to some combination of diet, sun, and lifestyle—live the longest in the world.

Since World War II, Okinawa has also had a strong U.S. military presence, which continues to be controversial. As the daughter of two teachers who taught on base, I grew up on Okinawa, and have spent countless hours driving the island, north to south, east to west, and all around. But one of my favorite drives is on the island’s portion of Route 58, which runs from the capital of Naha to the northernmost point of Okinawa proper. I took my husband to Okinawa for the first time last year, and we spent a few days winding along the coast, stopping at waterfalls, and seeing centuries-old ruins. Here’s how we did it.

The trip: Three days, 70 miles on Route 58 (plus some detours)

Japan’s National Route 58 actually spans several disconnected island chains, from Kagoshima in the Kagoshima Prefecture to Naha in the Okinawa Prefecture. This road trip focuses on the highway’s “fourth” segment, in Okinawa. To get to Naha, your starting point, take a three-hour flight from Tokyo's Haneda Airport.

When to go

There’s sunshine and manageable heat if you visit in spring (early March to early May) or autumn (October and November). The prefecture gets rainier in May and June, and typhoons are frequent in July and August.

What to drive

The smaller the car, the better, as some of Okinawa’s roads off of the highway are narrow with a bevy of blind spots. Pick up a car from Times Car Rental in Naha, which has a free shuttle from the airport.

Day 1

Okinawa has a cuisine all its own, and there’s no better place to try it than at Makishi Public Market off of Kokusai Dori, Naha’s main artery. Browse regional specialties—including goya (bitter melon), shikuwasa (a citrus fruit), and purple sweet potatoes—and for breakfast, choose some seafood and have it cooked on the market’s second floor for around $5. If caffeine instead of tempura is more your morning speed, my Naha go-to is The Coffee Stand, which is housed in an old shipping container nearby and serves some of the island’s best espresso and pour-overs.

Next up is Shuri Castle, which was the former palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom during the 14th century and almost completely destroyed during the 1945 Battle of Okinawa. It’s since been reconstructed based on photographs and historical records, and reflects the island’s varied influences: the castle was built using Ryukyuan limestone, and has red lacquer and architectural elements reminiscent of China’s Forbidden City. Once done wandering the grounds, do as we did and head 10 minutes north up winding hills for lunch at Shimujo, which serves steaming bowls of Okinawan soba with slow-cooked pork in an old home designated National Tangible Cultural Property by the government. (Get there by 11:30 a.m., lest they sell out, which has been my experience far too many times.)

Okinawa is known for its unglazed Tsuboya pottery, made using soil in a wood-fired kiln. One of my favorite places to see it being made is Yachimun no Sato, or Yomitan Pottery Village, home to more than 40 artisans. There’s an expansive parking lot at the beginning of the complex, and shops and studios are connected by a path best explored on foot. Potters display their wares on tables in front of their homes, but anyone can wander back to their studios and see them in action. Items, including bowls and curly-maned shisa, which resemble a cross between a dog and a lion and are seen virtually everywhere on Okinawa, start at $5 and run into the hundreds.

For dinner, it’s worth forgoing 58 and heading east for taco rice, a popular Okinawan dish that is pretty much what it sounds like: taco meat, cheese, lettuce, and tomatoes over a bed of rice. My pick for dinner is King Tacos in Kin, which claims to have invented the dish. (Even Anthony Bourdain, who featured the island on Parts Unknown in 2015, was a fan, characterizing it as an “unholy, greasy, starchy, probably really unhealthy delight, a booze-mop-turned-classic.”)

The only real option after a plate of taco rice is to collapse into bed. Stay on the west side at Guesthouse Tama, which is conveniently located next to Nagahama Seika, a factory that makes traditional chinsuko (Okinawan salt cookies).

Day 2

To start the day, I’m partial to breakfast to-go from Bakery Otonariya, which has friendly staff and an incredible selection of French and Japanese baked goods, like a walnut and chocolate loaf with Okinawan orange, and flaky pastries with blueberries and custard. Take a picnic to nearby Maeda Flats, one of the best beaches for exploring tidepools when the water is low.

Dust off the sand (and crumbs) and head to Cape Manzamo, which comprises a grassy plain overlooking the East China Sea and is known for its offshore rock formations—including one that resembles an elephant snout. Continue heading north, and turn off at the Motobu Peninsula, where the move is to wind around the island on road 449 and head uphill once you see signs for Kajinho, or Pizza in the Sky. The cash-only pizza restaurant has become increasingly popular in recent years, so you can expect a wait, but we promise it will be worth it: the pizza crust is made with local spring water and topped with corn, and is served in a traditional Okinawan house overlooking the surrounding sea and countryside.

Peeling yourself away from pizza is tough, but hey, whale sharks await: Continue the drive around Motobu until you hit Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, which highlights the region’s rich marine life and was once the largest aquarium in the world (it was surpassed in 2005 by the Georgia Aquarium in Atlanta). The aquarium is known for its work with whale sharks, and it’s hard not to be humbled standing in front of the 26-foot-tall, 74-foot-wide Kuroshio Sea Tank, where several 28-foot gentle giants glide by.

Five miles east of the aquarium, amid lush forests, stands the UNESCO-listed Nakijin Castle, but if you’re short on time (or just hungry again), head straight for dinner. At Usi no Ibukuro, red meat is what’s on the menu. Similar to Kobe (but a lot less well-known and rarer), Okinawan beef has lots of marbling; sample premium cuts as well as pieces of the heart, tongue, second stomach, and small intestine, all grilled yakiniku-style right in front of you. (Orion beer on draft helps things go down even smoother.)

Small, clean Tinto Tinto hotel has Japanese- and Western-style rooms overlooking the water; depending on your booking, breakfast may be included.

Day 3

In the morning, head toward Yagaji Island and then over the Kouri Bridge: the longest toll-free bridge in Japan, it’s more than 6,000 feet long and has spectacular views of the blue-green sea all around it. (The conical Kouri Ocean Tower has even better views from up high, if you’re into that sort of thing.) Kouri is known for its beaches, and one of the most popular is at the base of the bridge; other sandy go-tos include Chigunu Beach and Tinu Beach, which has two heart-shaped rocks offshore.

Back over the bridge on Okinawa proper, continue north to the village of Ogimi, which is considered the island’s “village of longevity” (its residents live the longest in the world). There isn’t much to see in Ogimi—it’s primarily full of small homes—but lunch at restaurant Eminomise, which serves a “longevity” tasting menu with purple sweet potatoes, shikuwasa, azuki (Japanese red beans), and bitter melon with tofu, is worth the stop. Reservations are required, and can be made by emailing the restaurant a day before.

Having added a few years to your life, travel north on 58 and turn inland to Hiji Falls. You’ll have to hike about 40 minutes through dense jungle to reach the waterfall—which, at around 80 feet, is the tallest on Okinawa—but the good news is that much of the trail has been covered with stairs and walkways in recent years, making it much more accessible. (The bad news: Though I used to swing into the base of the waterfall during high school, swimming here has since been outlawed because of risk.)

The next stretch of 58 is the most picturesque, with the road curling along the island’s western coast until it comes to an end. Cape Hedo is the island’s northernmost point, and it’s here that the East China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It’s dramatic, to say the least: waves crash into cliffs, and fishermen sit on rock ledges to dangle their lines into the foaming sea below. Take in the view and snap a few photos, then sit for the sunset—even those are better here. Come nightfall, turn around and head back to Naha: without stopping, the drive will take you just two hours.