Places to Stay

My Favorite Airbnb: A Bright Loft in Mexico City With Vintage Decor and a Lush Patio

It's a slice of mid-century modern Mexico City.
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Courtesy Airbnb

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During the most trying points of 2020, when the idea of crossing a border felt as feasible as walking on the moon, my mind would always escape to Mexico City. I went there on my honeymoon, and I have romanticized its art nouveau architecture, open-air mezcalerias, drooping bougainvillea, and ramshackle bookstores ever since. So when the opportunity arose to return earlier this year, I was nervous. How would the real thing compare to the dreamy city that I had so meticulously preserved in my mind? What if the passing of time had changed it entirely? Clearly, I would need to find an accommodation that not only met my expectations, but understood them.

Poking around Airbnb one evening, a few weeks before my trip, I was feeling overwhelmed by options (a victim of its own popularity, CDMX has somewhat morphed into an Airbnb city) until finally an apartment caught my eye. A self-described loft space in Roma Norte, it had all the prerequisites for a solid Airbnb experience: a Superhost, self check-in, a fabulous location, and almost 100 five-star reviews. But it was a line within one of those reviews that sealed the deal: “You are in for a treat once you open the ‘secret garden-like’ gate into your private terrace.” I messaged the host, Diego, immediately—and within a matter of minutes, the place was mine.

Walking into my Roma Norte Airbnb gave me the sense that I had stumbled across something special that every other traveler was unwittingly walking past. Tucked away behind a trendy eyewear store, inside a narrow-looking townhouse, my loft lay at the top of a steep flight of stairs (note: you will have to drag your luggage up them) and through a leafy outdoor pathway lined with cacti and flowers. Inside was a private, spacious studio with high ceilings and plenty of light falling in through the large windows that populated one side of the space. Open plan with no separation between the sleeping and living areas, it's certainly more of a place for solo travelers or couples—or very close friends in a pinch—but that’s the appeal. It’s a chic crash pad with all of the amenities you might need, but it won't leave you feeling guilty if you spend the entire day outside of it.

This Roma Norte loft is filled with plants both inside and on the terrace.

Courtesy Airbnb

It will, however, leave you mentally redecorating your own home into a slice of mid-century modern Mexico City. The king-size bed (which was firm but gloriously comfortable after an arduous journey characterized by multiple delayed flights) sits atop a beautiful red woven rug I’d have liked to have taken back to New York with me; the dome-shaped bedside lamps were both vintage; and mahogany sideboards and wide wooden floorboards popped against the crisp white walls, which were punctuated by tall potted palms. 

Other nice details: a stack of records including a Mexican press of a Beatles album, a mint condition Rolleiflex camera propped on a shelf, a spinning globe, and a glass case containing what appeared to be screen-printed artist zines. There were also all the essentials I’ve come to expect from an Airbnb like this one: strong Wi-Fi, a French press, and a spotless bathroom complete with a rain shower.

And then, of course, there was that “secret garden.” A few steps down the path leading from the loft, I arrived at another gate. Behind it? The private terrace which had so beguiled that reviewer, covered in swaying pink flowers and palm trees, as well as families of cacti standing tall. Plus, a set of table and chairs for long breakfasts and lunches, and a gaggle of woven rockers to kick back in—made better with fresh coffee or a glass of mezcal in your hand. The only thing that prompted me to eventually leave was the music drifting over the wall from another building, a call from the city that there was still so much more to explore.

Which I did, joyfully—although, as I had suspected, Mexico City wasn’t quite as I had left it. A bar I remembered fondly had either changed hands or closed down entirely, and I couldn’t find a bookshop that my pre-pandemic self had once carelessly wiled away an hour in. One thing I had near-constantly dreamed of since my last visit was Contramar’s legendary tuna tostadas, but it was impossible to get a table thanks to the throngs of Instagrammers already lined up for their meals. In the end, I gave up on bargaining over a Monday morning table and meandered through Roma until I eventually stumbled across a newly-opened spot that served large helpings of aguachile to a bustling crowd, all of whom seemed to be as thankful as I was to be back in the world. I retreated back to my loft happy and full a few hours later, eager to enjoy the sun from my terrace. Mexico City had changed, but so had I. And thankfully, I’d found a place to stay that knew just what I needed.