Review: Fairmont Century Plaza

Why book? After a $2.5 billion renovation, Los Angeles' iconic Century Plaza has reopened as a Fairmont—and added to its star-studded history the amenities today’s L.A. crowd chases, from a rooftop pool and a spa that offers biohacking treatments, to a Parisian-esque patisserie for power-lunching entertainment industry types. Set the scene Century City is home to Fox Studios and major entertainment agencies, but Hollywood’s footprint in the neighborhood is incredibly well-embedded within the Fairmont Century Plaza itself—before it became a Fairmont, it opened on the backlot of 20th Century Fox Studios in 1966, and went on to host the Emmys, Grammys, and even the first State Dinner held outside the White House (helmed by Nixon). Everyone from the Beatles to Sonny & Cher have walked these halls, and you’ll spot nods to them throughout: The elevators are named after Sonny & Cher, who performed nightly here in the 1970’s; the bar has a custom playlist paying tribute to a host of musicians who have performed in the hotel. And while Century City might not be the first neighborhood on your where-to-stay-in-L.A. list, it does have one thing to its advantage: a very central location. Rather than choose the quintessential beach towns on the west side or the trendier east side enclaves, dropping your bags in Century City means you’ll have access to both—and be a very short drive from Beverly Hills, Culver City, and Westwood. (This will only ring truer when a subway stop, under construction right next to the hotel, opens in 2025 with connection to Santa Monica and LAX.) The people sitting beside you at the lobby bar are, unsurprisingly, busy professionals who also need access to the above: picture entertainment agents just off-work, well-heeled travelers hoping to mix some business with pleasure, and a bit of everyone in between. The backstory Since opening in June of 1966—deemed “The Hotel of the Future” at the time, it was the first to have color televisions in every room among other modernisms—this mid-century design from famed architect Minoru Yamasaki has lived many lives. It has passed through a number of owners over the years, though its reputation among Angelenos as a focal point of Hollywood hasn’t dwindled. After a push for landmark status beginning in 2009 saved the iconic curving main building from demolition, it entered a phase of rehabilitation and, eventually, became part of a $2.5 billion mixed-use project that has brought it back to life today as a gleaming Fairmont. (The remainder of the project includes two residential towers, retail outposts, and restaurants that are still under construction behind the main building.) What Fairmont nailed, as they do, is preserving the glamor while making this a hotel for 2022 (technically it opened in September of 2021; I stayed in February of this year). The once-smaller hotel rooms were extended, so the lower number of guest rooms means more space in the now 400 units (85 of which are suites). And that glitz, these days, looks like modern, airy interiors—think blonde wood and retractable glass shrouding the lobby, crisp white linens in the bedrooms, bathrooms ensconced in grey and white marble—and beloved Fairmont perks, like two Fairmont Gold floors (open April 2022) with access to a private check-in, concierge, and lounge. The rooms Clean and classic. Think gray carpets, white walls, gentle recessed lighting. Nothing to write home about, and yet nothing that’ll rub you the wrong way—these rooms are a soothing spot to rest your head after wining and dining your way through the city. The hotel’s personality shines in the details: The room service menu nods to beloved film characters with recognizable illustrations (like a scene from When Harry Met Sally) and an adorable “movie night” portion has salty and sweet snacks for nights in that will really speak to kids. There’s a view no matter which side of the building you’re on, either looking west toward the ocean or east toward downtown (on the east side, our 12th floor room looked straight through the horseshoe-shaped CAA offices at the rest of the city, which was a pretty remarkable view). The highlights of the rooms are, in my opinion, the striking marble bathrooms—the hallway layout from vanity to shower surrounds you with the lovely stone—and balconies where you can look out onto the glittering city. (Good thing the curtains are thick; the neon red lights on each deck give an unexpected Vegas vibe, but nothing that will impact your stay.) Food and drink The best part about the lobby bar is the well-curated list of spirits and inviting cocktails (not to mention the bar menu itself, which is a beautifully designed crash course on every musician with a tie to this place). Lumière, though, is the spot to return to. The main restaurant is a brasserie with seemingly standard dishes that sing—and whoever you are, you’ll be surprised and delighted by the chicken liver mousse. Tasteful seafood towers are perfect for special occasions, yet I could spend night after night exploring the wine list (the somm is also kind and talented). As a Los Angeles native who currently lives in New York, it’s the kind of place I’ve long felt the West Coast has been missing—inviting yet elevated brasseries that make you want to devote three hours to dinner because you just don’t want to leave. I wish I had been surprised when the staff told me that many of the decor elements and furniture for the space had been thrifted from Paris; they couldn’t have nailed it any other way. (There’s also a private dining room with just as much care—definitely call ahead about booking it if you have a group). The spa This is L.A., so of course there’s a fantastic spa. What’s perhaps best is that the spa’s amenities—a salt room, a blue-light rain bath, a steam room, etc.—pair so well with the Technogym-rich workout center. I felt like the person I usually only aspire to be, hitting a handful of machines (the variety far surpasses the average hotel gym), using the guided Theragun recovery center, then resetting at the spa before starting my day. For more where that came from, the biohacking offering—which involves an antigravity bed in an infrared sauna, Normatec lymphatic drainage pants, and a red light mask—seems to be the ultimate L.A. wellness experience, though I loved the totally relaxing Sunset Treatment (crystal eye mask and sunset-lamp projection on the wall included). The neighborhood/area Century City isn’t the main attraction here. You’ll have the things you need, like a gazillion shops in the shopping center down the block—but the real appeal is the short commute to everywhere else you want to be (if you have a car, which you should, there's easy access to the 10 and the 405, the main arteries of the city). The service Friendly. You’ll be well-taken care of—I stayed over my mother’s birthday, and I couldn’t count the number of well wishes she received. Service is unfussy though, in case the hotel's canine ambassador, a lovable black lab, is any indication. Anything left to mention? This is just phase one of the Century Plaza’s new life. When the restaurants and retail shops currently in the works fully open, and especially when the new subway flings open its doors, this spot will be more than a historic hotel in the middle of Century City; it’ll be a new hub for mid-city, and the prime location of a room here will be even more convenient.