Review: Azuki to Kouri

What were your first impressions when you arrived? The clean-lined, slate-grey interior of this kakigori ice specialist sets off the ebullient shaved ice creations of pâtissier Miho Horio. Formerly of two-Michelin-starred restaurant Florilege, Horio is one of the young chefs elevating the sweet treat to new heights of refinement. When she’s not behind the counter, she spends her time on the road sourcing pristine produce from around the country. What’s the crowd like? The seven seats at Azuki to Kouri are almost always occupied, so reservations (available via the website) are essential. Horio’s famous desserts and the café’s relaxed atmosphere draw a mixed crowd of kakigori aficionados, globe-trotting foodies, and folks from the neighborhood. What should we be drinking? The drinks menu features teas from Tea Farm Inokura in Nara Prefecture, including original blends made with seasonal fruits. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Kakigori is the main event here. Horio carefully adjusts the blade of her ice machine to shave blocks of ice—made with spring water from Nikko, north of Tokyo—into fluffy, feathery flakes. Shaping the shavings into a delicate mound, she adds fresh fruit and toppings such as homemade syrups, compotes, and foams. Her signature parfait showcases sweet azuki red beans—the classic kakigori topping for which the café is named—paired with cream and flecks of meringue. Seasonal offerings include salted cherry blossoms with fresh strawberries in spring, and blood orange dusted with grated Amazonian cacao in early summer. Follow your shaved ice with Horio’s delectable French toast—a slice of brioche decadently fried in butter and served with azuki and espuma. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? It’s a tiny operation, manned by one server along with Horio herself, who chats with guests across the counter like an affable sushi chef. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Be sure to get there while the sun still shines: Azuki to Kouri closes at 5 p.m. on weekdays, and 7 p.m. on the weekends.